Return to the BUILD
“This issue brings you a selection of parts for your Millennium Falcon, including more interior details, the upper laser turret, and more sections of the internal metal framework that supports the outer paneling.“
Materials: The Hull Frames and Hologame Table are metal, and the rest of these parts are plastic.
Screws: I have designated the screws supplied in this issue as Type F for Frames. See my Screws page for more details.
- Philips-head screwdriver (appears to be PH0 size)
- Starship Fact File – The Legendary Millennium Falcon: The Ultimate Smuggling Ship
- Secrets of Spaceflight – Pilot’s Instruments
- Build the Falcon – Assembly Steps
Assembling the Hull Frames
Retrieve your Hull Frame TF-1 (marked TF-01) from the previous issue. Fit a 2-Hole Connector to this matching recess on the Frame.
TIP: The TF marking on these Hull Frame stands for ‘Top Frame’. As we go, we will also see BF and SF markings for ‘Bottom Frame’ and ‘Side Frame’.
TIP: As we work with these top Hull Frames, keep in mind that the TF markings on each part should all be on the same side and facing up towards us:
Loosely secure this Connector into place with one (1) Type F screw, as shown.
As I mentioned above, I am using my own letter designation for the different screw types in this build.
TIP: When we attach Hull Frames to each other, we want to leave these screws on the appropriate Connectors slightly loose until the Frame parts we are connecting are aligned together correctly.
Fit a 4-Hole Connector to the nearby corner of this Hull Frame TF-01 as shown, and loosely secure it into place with one (1) Type F screw:
Retrieve Hull Frame TF-2 (marked TF-02) from the previous issue. Align Hull Frame TF-2 under the two Connectors we just installed, as shown. Using one (1) Type F screw, loosely secure the 2-Hole Connector to this Hull Frame:
Align the screw holes of the 4-hole Connector and Hull Frame TF-2 as shown, then loosely secure them together with one (1) Type F screw:
Finish securing these Hull Frames together by tightening all four of these screws. Do not over-tighten them.
Here, I gently slid the two Hull Frame parts along each other until both Connectors aligned to their matching recesses in each Hull Frame. You will know when you have it right by how it looks and feels. Once the Frames were properly aligned, I tightened all four of these screws:
At the bottom right of Hull Frame TF-2, fit a 4-hole Connector as shown and loosely secure it with one (1) Type F screw:
At the upper right of Hull Frame TF-2, fit a 2-hole Connector as shown and loosely secure it with one (1) Type F screw:
This is what we should have so far:
Align Hull Frame TF-3 (marked TF-03) under the two Connectors we just installed, as shown. Using two (2) Type F screws, loosely secure the new Connectors to this Hull Frame.
Once happy with alignment of these Frames to each other, go ahead and tighten all four of these screws:
At the bottom right of Hull Frame TF-3, fit another 4-hole Connector as shown and loosely secure it with one (1) Type F screw:
At the upper right of Hull Frame TF-3, fit another 2-hole Connector as shown and loosely secure it with one (1) Type F screw:
Align Hull Frame TF-4 (marked TF-04) under the two Connectors we just installed, as shown:
Using two (2) Type F screws, loosely secure the new Connectors to this Hull Frame:
Once happy with alignment of these Frames to each other, proceed to tighten all four of the last screws. This step completes the Hull Frame construction in this issue:
Retrieve your Hull Plate TP-1 from the previous issue. Test fit this Plate by pressing the two outer posts into the matching holes of Hull Frame TF-02 and Hull Frame TF-03, as shown.
This is only a temporary fitting as the Plates will be secured to the Frames using screws at a later point in the build:
Assembling the Hologame Board
Peel the backing paper from the Dejarik Game Board decal and adhere it to the top of the Hologame Table, as shown.
TIP: If you plan on painting or weathering this Hologame Table, you can optionally wait to install this decal.
The radial lines of the Dejarik pattern should align to the recessed edges of the Table’s control panels (lines below):
Applying the Instrument Panel
Retrieve your Cockpit Base from the previous issue. Test fit the two pins of the Control Console down into the matching holes at this location on the Base, as shown.
This is only a temporary fitment so we can install the decal:
Peel the backing paper from the Instrument Display decal and apply it to the Control Console. Be sure to align the four small holes in each part, as shown:
The Quad Laser Turret Assembly
This is only to show how the Laser Cannon assembly from the previous issue is going to be attached to the Quad Laser Turret TP-3. It is recommended NOT to fit it at this time as fitting and removing this may loosen the connection point:
Welcome to my first Mod Zone! I use these to explain any additional work I do to my builds as we work through them. In this case, it is not a big secret in the partwork community that the gun port window ring on our Quad Laser Turret is not aligned correctly. If we look closely at this reference photo of the original ILM model from Empire Strikes Back, we can see the proper positioning:
The best way I have seen to accomplish this is to first turn our Quad Laser Turret over and set it on a soft surface. Here, I am using my Assembly Cushion from Partwork Upgrades – I love this thing!
Next, run the sharp blade of a hobby knife around the inside edge of the gun port opening a few times. This will help sever the glued connection between the window ring and the hull plate:
Then, with gentle but firm pressure, press down on the inside edges of the window ring with the tip of a flathead screwdriver or similar tool. Slowly move around the ring pushing it out of the gun port opening until the window ring pops free:
Once the window ring released, I took my hobby knife and shaved off any excess glue around the outer lip:
In order to rotate our window ring, there is a small alignment tab on it that needs to be removed. A good set of sprue cutters work great here:
To clean things up, I used a sandpaper stick (around 2400 grit) to sand off the remainder of the tab and any glue still dried around the lip:
Temporarily test fit the window ring back in the opening and rotate it into the alignment you choose. I aligned the window bars to the same angle as the hull details right behind the gun port (see lines below):
To hold the window ring in position so I could glue it back into place, I used a piece of low-tack painter’s tape:
Finally, using a very small amount of super glue from the inside, secure the window ring back into the Quad Laser Turret as shown:
I turned the Turret back upright while the glue dried, but we are done!
Building this first section of Hull Frames really gives us an idea of just how big our Millennium Falcon is going to be. I’ve heard we will be receiving jigs to keep things aligned as we keep adding to the frame assembly. These are likely going to take up a lot of space, so prepare a large storage area for use during the construction of this model. Keep all of these parts stored safely until the next shipment arrives!
Issue 03 – Hull Plating, Cockpit Door/Panel, Control Yokes, Throttle Levers, Pilots’ Seats, Passenger Seats