ISSUE 12

 Return to the BUILD


“This issue includes another detail for the hold, which you will be adding next time. You also have more parts for the bottom of the hull, so it’s time to assemble a complete modular section, as shown on the following pages.

To complete these issue, we will need the leftover parts from Issue 09, Issue 10, and Issue 11.

Contents


Parts

Materials: The Hull Frames, Rib Connector, Radial Stiffening Rib, and 2-Hole Connector are metal, while the other parts are plastic.

Screws: I have designated the screws supplied in this issue as follows. See my Screws page for more details:

  • Parts #7 = Type F for Frames
  • Parts #8 = Type R for Radial Ribs
  • Parts #9 = Type M for Main Hold
  • Parts #10 = Type H for Hull Plating

Magazine

  • Starship Fact File – CEC’s Light Freighter Variants: YT-1300 FP Mixed Transport & Cargo Carrier
  • Secrets of Spaceflight – Roll, Pitch, and Yaw
  • Build the Falcon – Assembly Steps

Build


NOTE: The Main Hold Support and Hull Plating BP-8 will not be needed in these assembly steps. Store them safely until we need them in a later issue.

Assembling the Bottom Frames

TIP: Before we start this issue, I suggest building the two Radial Stiffening Ribs assemblies first. I found it easier than trying to connect them after they are already attached to the Hull Frames. To do this, we need the following parts:

  • The two outer Radial Stiffening Ribs from the previous issue and Issue 10. These Radial Ribs have two screw mounting points at one end.
  • The two inner Radial Stiffening Ribs from this issue and Issue 11. These Radial Ribs have a small pin at one end.
  • The two Rib Connectors from this issue and the previous issue.
  • Eight (8) Type R screws (long brass-colored with fine threads) from this issue and the previous issue.

Next, align the joint ends of a outer and inner Radial Rib together as shown, with the two screw mounting points of the outer Ribs at the left and the small pin of the inner Ribs (circled) to the right. The joint between these Ribs is angled to help make sure they are fitted together correctly.

Then, cover the joints with the Rib Connectors as seen here. If you look closely at the Connectors, the holes along one side have threaded holes. If you can’t see which side has them, use one of the Type R screws and poke it through the holes. On one side of the Connector, the screw will pass through the holes easily – these holes are non-threaded. The other side of the Connector will have the threads:

Finally, align the four Rib Connector screw holes to the Ribs and loosely install four Type R screws through the non-threaded side of each Connector, passing through the Ribs, and into the threaded side of the Connector as shown. While the Connectors can be technically be installed in either direction (which side is threaded), I chose to use this side of the Ribs so we can access these screws easier as the build progresses:

Step 01

For reference, this is how the Hull Frames we are going to assemble will be arranged and in which issue they were provided:

Retrieve your Hull Frame BF-10 from Issue 09. Fit the right edge of outer Radial Stiffening Rib on top of the left edge of the Frame, orienting  both parts as shown.

While assembling these frames, ensure all of the part number markings (e.g. BF-10) are facing up towards you:

Steps 02-03

Loosely secure the Rib to this Frame with two (2) Type F screws.

The reason I keep saying to loosely install these screws is because there is a small amount of adjustability in the screw holes. By leaving them loose for now, we can build up an entire ‘wedge’ of the Frame components and make sure they are properly aligned before tightening all the screws at once:

Step 04

Retrieve your Hull Frames BF11 and BF-13 from Issue 10. Align Frame BF-13 under the left side of the outer Radial Stiffening Rib, as shown:

Steps 05-06

As before, loosely secure the Rib to this Frame with two (2) Type F screws:

Step 07

Align Hull Frame BF-11 under the lower right corner of the outer Radial Stiffening Rib, at the bottom edge of Hull Frame BF-10 as shown:

Loosely install one (1) Type F screw at the junction of this Frame and the Radial Rib, as shown:

Step 08

Align the 2-Hole Connector over these holes of Hull Frame BF-14 and Hull Frame BF-10, and then loosely secure it into place with two (2) more Type F screws:

Step 09

Retrieve your Hull Frame BF-14 from Issue 11. Align Frame BF-14 under the left lower corner of the outer Radial Stiffening Rib, as shown:

Loosely install one (1) Type F screw at the junction of this Frame and the Radial Rib, as shown:

As we have already assembled our Radial Stiffening Rib, we can also loosely secure the Rib to the bottom holes of Hull Frame BF-14 and Hull Frame BF-11 with two (2) more Type F screws, as shown:

At this point, we have enough Hull Frame structure connected to both ends of the Radial Stiffening Rib to tighten all the screws we have installed so far. Make sure all the Hull Frames are aligned square to each other and that the Rib is flush against each frame. As you do this, you will notice that there is a ‘bowl’ shape to the assembly since the Ribs are curved. Once you are happy with the alignment, you can fully tighten the screws of the Rib Connector and go around and tighten every Type F screw securing the Hull Frames.

TIP: To prevent stressing any part of this frame, I recommend only holding the assembly down near the screw you are tightening. Other parts of the assembly may lift off your work surface as you go. This is normal, as we are slowly creating the bottom ‘dome’ shape of our Millennium Falcon!

Joining Radial Ribs

Steps 01-05

These steps cover connecting the inner and outer Radial Stiffening Ribs together, which we did before we started this issue (see above).

Step 06

Align Hull Frame BF-12 (from this issue) under the lower right corner of the inner Radial Stiffening Rib, at the bottom edge of Hull Frame BF-11 as shown:

Step 07

Loosely install one (1) Type F screw at the junction of this Frame and the Radial Rib, as shown:

Step 08

Retrieve your 2-Hole Connector from Issue 10. Align the 2-Hole Connector over these holes of Hull Frame BF-11 and Hull Frame BF-12, and then loosely secure it into place with two (2) Type F screws:

Step 09

Align Hull Frame BF-15 (from this issue) under the lower left corner of the inner Radial Stiffening Rib, at the bottom edge of Hull Frame BF-14 as shown:

Step 10

Loosely install one (1) Type F screw at the junction of this Frame and the Radial Rib, as shown:

Steps 11-15

These are the steps where they say it is easier to connect the Radial Ribs together beforehand. We did this already before we started the issue.

Step 16

Align the second Radial Stiffening Rib assembly over top of the left edge screw holes of Hull Frames BF 13, BF-14, and BF-15, as shown:

Steps 17-19

Loosely secure this Radial Rib to the three nearby Hull Frames with five (5) Type F screws, as shown:

Once again, ensure these new Hull Frames and Ribs are aligned properly, then go back and fully secure the Rib Connector screws and all of the recent Type F screws. With that complete, this is what our lower Hull Frame assembly should look like:

How the Hull Plating Fits

NOTE: This section is optional as these Hull Plating parts will not be secured into place until later on in the build. And, as we continue the assembly of the Hull Frames, the Plating parts should be removed anyway. However, for illustrative purposes I will share where they go:

Step 01

Turn your lower Hull Frame assembly over, orienting it as shown.

Since this assembly does not lay flat, we need to take special care not to put any undue force on it. As you fit the Hull Plating in these steps, I recommend picking the assembly up and doing it away from your work surface:

Retrieve your Hull Plating BP-10 from Issue 09. Loosely press the posts of this Plating into the matching holes at this location, as shown.

You may find that some Hull Frame holes don’t quite line up to the Hull Plating posts. This is because the posts are angled to fit the final position of the Plating. If needed, you can gently bend the Frames a bit to pop them onto the posts:

Step 02

Retrieve your Hull Plating BP-9 from Issue 10. Loosely press the posts of this Plating into the matching holes at this location, as shown.

This Hull Plating should slightly overlap the previous Plating:

Step 03

Retrieve your Hull Plating BP-11 from Issue 11. Loosely press the posts of this Plating into the matching holes at this location, as shown.

The large rectangular hole in this Plating is where one of the landing leg assemblies will be:

Thoughts


Wow, this was a fantastic issue. We are finally getting an idea of just how big our Millennium Falcon is going to be, and this is only one corner of the lower hull! In the following stages, the magazine instructions will show this Hull Frame assembly without the Plating fitted. However, there is no real reason I can find not to leave them in place for now. Finally, keep the Main Hold Pipe Support and Hull Plating BP-8 nearby as they will be fitted in the next stages.

Next Up


 Issue 13 – Hull Plating/Frame, Main Hold Pipes, Floor-Level Pipes, Frame Members, Fixing Studs

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